You Belong Outside Spotlight: Skiing the Blaze

Jeff Lee skiing the Blaze June 9th (c)K. Dean 2012

Blaze Mountain, Spanish Peaks. Long after most people put their skis away for the season a few people won't quite give it up. That is where "the Blaze" comes in; a nice northwest facing snowfield that holds snow into August and most years it holds snow year round. This is a great objective for someone who wants to get another ski run in and is willing to work for it.  It is about a 7 mile approach and its a great way to introduce yourself to the Spanish Peaks.

The Approach following Spanish Creek (c) K. Dean 201

 It is recommended to have a good ski carry system on your backpack. Also wear comfortable shoes or hiking boots for the long approach.  You shouldn't need skins or AT gear but having self arrest gear and avalanche gear are always recommended any time you go backcountry skiing.    The long approach can be done as a single day or an overnight. Mirror Lake and the Spanish Lakes are two excellent camping options but most people will elect to go lighter and make it a long day (6-12 hours for most parties). 

August 2010 conditions (c)Jeff Lee

 Getting there: Getting there is pretty simple, head south on 191 from 4 corners and once you enter the canyon take the Spanish Creek Road on the right about half a mile from the entrance to the canyon. Follow the road through private land several miles until you reach the Spanish Creek trail head.  Watch out for Buffalo on your drive especially if you are headed out early in the morning.

The Approach:Take the Spanish Creek trail (not to be confused with the Hellroaring trail head) along Spanish Creek, there are several forks in this trail but you should follow the signs for Spanish Lakes.  Blaze Mountain is about 6 miles up the trail with about a mile of bushwhacking to get to the top of the snowfield.  Typically you can see the Blaze from the trail and finding a route up to it is relatively straightforward.  The Blaze is the obvious snow line on the Northwest face and will run anywhere from 800 to 1800 vertical feet.  Hike up the scree on either side of the snow to the top.

The Blaze in the middle of June (c) K.Dean 2012

The Descent:  From the top you have great views of the rest of the Spanish Peaks, the summit of Blaze mountain is a short scramble away.  The descent is straightforward, stay on the snow and get in some turns.  The difficulty varies depending on the snow pack, when it is full the Blaze will ski like a moderate but later in the summer it can become more difficult. Typically the top stays in good condition but the lower you get the skinnier the line gets. 1500 vertical feet is nice but it is pretty easy to lap the Blaze and get several runs in if the weather is clear.

Crossing the stream on the way out.

The Beartooth Publishing map Big Sky Area shows the trails and mountains and is the recommended map if you are headed into the Spanish Peaks area.  Depending on the time of year you need to be wary of the weather and snow conditions.  It is a good idea to always travel with a partner and to let someone know where you are going.  For more info on local outdoor areas check out the Our Backyard section of our website.  Your comments and critiques are welcome as we spotlight areas of Southwest Montana we know and love.  Email Kevin with any thoughts, corrections, or suggestions.

Last post: Granite Peak

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Free Soloing Gallatin Tower

Check out this video of a NLTC employee getting out and getting after it before work.  Free Soloing the standard route on Gallatin Tower.  3 pitches graded at 5.8 trad it is one of the classic lines in Gallatin Canyon and a must climb for Southwest Montana climbers.
For more videos check out our youtube channel.

You Belong Outside Spotlight:Granite Peak Alpine Climbing

Granite Peak 12,799 from Tempest Mountain. (c) Kevin Dean 2012

Granite Peak, the highest summit in Montana, is often called the toughest state high point in the lower 48 states.  While there are several that are higher, none of them have the unique combination of remoteness, exposure, and unpredictable weather that make Granite such a tough mountain to climb. Summiting is mostly considered a two or three day trip, but depending on your fitness level and which route you choose it can be done in a day.  Granted, for most of us, that is a very long day. There are multiple established routes to the summit and two great references (both are currently out of print): Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone by Thomas Turiano and the Granite Peak map and climbing guide by Joe Josephson. 

Getting There:  There are several ways to approach Granite. The two most common trailheads are East Rosebud and West Rosebud.  To get there from Bozeman head East on I-90 to Columbus and go south to Absorkee. To get to West Rosebud head to Fishkill, Montana and take FR 72 to the West Rosebud/Mystic Lake trailhead.  For East Rosebud take 78 from Absorkee to Roscoe and from there take FR 177 East Rosebud Road and follow the signs to East Rosebud. Park at the Phantom Creek trailhead.

Goats on Froze-to-Death Plateau (c) Kevin Dean 2010

The Approach: The approach is one of the biggest reasons Granite is such a tough mountain to summit.  There is noa direct way to the top. The most common route is to cross Froze-to-Death Plateau.  As uninviting as it sounds this is considered the easiest way across. Loose rock and Alpine tundra can make this a slow slog, but the views make it well worth the hike. There is also an active mountain goat population that is commonly seen on the Plateau.  Route finding can be very difficult but there are cairns along most of the way.  It is recommended to have a map with you in order to choose the best route.  Please tread lightly and be aware that this is a fragile environment; take efforts to stay in the rocks or along a trail, avoiding the grasses and wildflowers.

The East Ridge. (c) Kevin Dean 2010

The Standard Route: The standard route has three general parts: the east face (commonly called the triangle), the snow bridge, and the technical upper mountain.  The triangle is a straightforward scramble up scree or snow (depending on the season) followed by a traverse to the snow bridge.  Crossing the snow bridge can be tricky though it varies from season to season.  Once on the other side you are about 800 feet below the summit.  Route finding through the chimneys and ledges will take you to the south side of the mountain where you will look for the keyhole feature above you.  There are several different variations and using your own judgement is a must in order to find the best way to the top.  Climbing moves top out between 5.5 and 5.7 with most moves in the 5.3 range. Bringing a rope is recommended. While some parties decide they don't need it on the way up it makes the descent much faster and safer.

Matt Weiland skiing the Notch Couloir (c) Loren Rausch

Other Routes: There are several other routes that have been established on Granite Peak. The North Face has three routes that mix alpine rock with some steep snow and ice.
The Notch Couloir, is a tricky climb/ski line with a pitch over 50 degrees and can be downright scary depending on the snow conditions.  This is a very steep line but also a classic ski descent in Southwest Montana.
The Clanch Route and Chadwick-Bowman routes are two big alpine routes that start with climbing the Granite Glacier and then take on the large north face.

Bridget Belliveau on the South Face. (c)Loren Rausch 2010

Another great option is the Northwest Ridge Traverse. It's a long route, but worth the time and effort. This gives you some of the best views of Granite and will put you on the little climbed Northwest summit which is only about 50 feet below the main summit. From there, rappel down into the notch couloir and climb two pitches to the main summit.
Fewer routes have been documented from the south side but with an adventurous spirit and some route finding skills there are several routes up both rock and snow from that aspect. Check out this link to one such route.

Kasey Wells on the summit (c) Matt Parsons

Weather:  Thunderstorms are a large concern in the Beartooths, Afternoon is the most dangerous time and most parties plan on doing early ascents in order to be back on their way down by the afternoon.  In addition it is not uncommon to see snow showers high in the mountains at any point in the year, so be prepared for cold weather. A 90 degree day in Bozeman can be barely above freezing when you top out on Granite Peaks summit!

View of Granite from Mount Hague (c) Loren Rausch

Approaching Mystic Lake from West Rosebud.  (c) Matt Parsons

Granite Peak is just one of many excellent options for climbing in the Beartooth Mountains.  Whether you are looking for peak bagging or alpine climbing, there are countless opportunities in the Beartooth Mountains that can keep you busy for years. Check out the Beartooth Publishing map of the Beartooths or stop by and check out a few of the guidebooks that highlight the area.  Climbing is a dangerous activity and having the right equipment and a partner are necessary for a safe outing. For those who may not be ready to head out on their own there are guided climbs available through Jackson Hole Mountain Guides.

Your comments and critiques are welcome as we show off areas of Southwest Montana we know and love. Email Kevin with any thoughts, corrections, or suggestions.

Last Post: Bear Canyon Sport Climbing

New Route Book

Calling all Southwest Montana climbers!

Have you put up any new routes lately?  Add them to the new route book located in the climbing gear section of Northern Lights.

 

One of the current entries.

New routes are going up every year and we would like to see the climbing community come together and showcase their collective hard work! Bear Canyon, Natural Bridge, Wolverine Basin, Gallatin Canyon, Frog Rock, and Morgan Cemetery are just a few of the places that have seen new routes put up.  If you put in the sweat, time, and money; stop in and write a short description, draw a picture, and describe whatever else you think is appropriate for people to know about your route.  

A new multi-pitch route on Frog Rock

A Continuum of the old Barrel Ice Book- "Dedicated to the Climbers past, present, and future and the spirit shared by all those who love the hills-to share your love for climbing is a gift-write down your events"  -Alex Lowe

Morgan Cemetery

In addition if you want to try some new routes, come in and check out the book.  New beta is being added all the time and this gives you a chance to explore new climbs and different crags. Hope to see you soon!
If you would like to contribute an entry but won't be able to stop by the shop feel free to send an email with your entry and we will get it into the book!

You Belong Outside Spotlight: Bear Canyon Sandstone Sport Climbing

Brit T climbing after work at Bear Canyon.

Bear Canyon is a great place to introduce someone to outdoor climbing.  It's close to town, has a short approach, shorter routes, and ranges from 5.8 to 5.13.  The routes are well documented in both guidebooks for the Bozeman area and this description is meant to be an introduction to the area. Due to the short approach Bear Canyon is popular with the after work crowd.  The moderate climbs on the north side of the crag get enough sunlight to climb till sunset so its a good idea to bring a headlamp for the walk out.

Getting There: From Bozeman there are two ways to get there depending on which part of town you live in.  From the south of town head East on Kagy Blvd. Bear Canyon Road is about 4 miles from the intersection with Highland Blvd.
From the North of town it may be easier to take I-90 to the Bear Canyon exit.  Take a right exiting the off-ramp and Bear Canyon road is less than 200 yards east of the exit. 
Turn onto Bear Canyon Road and continue to the Bear Canyon trailhead which is at the very end of the road.  There is very limited parking near the Bear Canyon trailhead so park at the New World Gulch trailhead and walk up the road to the Bear Canyon Trail. 

Bear Canyon Sandstone

The Approach:  It is one of the quickest approaches near Bozeman, head a short ways up the Bear Canyon trailhead, there is a collection of small boulders on the right side with a Cairn marking the climbers trail.  From here you should see an obvious trail with a large log crossing the stream.  If you don't see the log you probably have not gone far enough but if you reach the bridge you have gone too far.  From the bridge it is about 100 yards back up the trail to get to the climbers trail.

Once you are at the Crag there are three ways that you can head, to the left are some terrific moderate routes, straight ahead are two more excellent moderates, and around to the right are where the harder routes are set up.  

Batman and Robin from the trail.

Batman and Robin Slab: Batman and Robin are two classic routes in Bear Canyon located right next to each other on the large rock straight up the trail.  Both of these are slab climbs with lots of nice pockets. Start on Batman (the left one) and once you are warmed up give Robin a try.

Both of these routes can be top roped if you walk around to the right but the best practice would be to have someone climb it on lead and set up the top rope since there is risk of rockfall and some tricky exposure to get to the top of these routes from around the back.

Jeff Lee climbing Skin Diver.

Under the Sea Wall: The other moderate section is down the hill slightly and to the north.  There are 5 climbs and from right to left go 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, 5.9, 5.10.  These climbs have more cracks and flakes than Batman and Robin, are slightly longer and offer a little different climbing feel. They are an option if another party is climbing on the Batman and Robin slab.

Skin Diver is the first climb on the right and a good place to start.  At 5.8 it is the easiest of the 5 climbs but it is a fun one, the flakes give up some great side pulls and under cling moves and the bolts are close together for those who are new to leading.

South Sea is just to the left and another neat climb with a tricky transition in the middle.  Good foot holds make this a fun but very approachable 5.9. 

Further up are the last 3 moderates, from right to left Under the Sea 10b, Sea Bucket 5.9, and Coral Crimper 10a.  Each of these have something a little different and are fun routes.  Under the Sea has a small roof that is a little tricky but well protected, Sea Bucket is difficult for the first 3-4 bolts, and Coral Crimper has a tricky slab traverse mid way through the route.

The right side of the prow.

The Prow:  If you are looking for something a little more challenging there are some 11s and 12s on the other side of the Batman and Robin slab.  Kick the Bucket and Ignition are two of the best. Check out Southwest Montana Rock Climbs for more information on these routes.

In addition to the Sandstone there are some Limestone crags higher up the canyon that don't see as much use.  For more information on those climbs check out Bozeman Rock Climbs by Bill Dockins.  Climbing is a dangerous activity and having the right equipment and a partner are necessary for a safe outing.  Spire Climbing Center is a great place to start and there are also guided climbs available through Montana Alpine Guides.Your comments and critiques are welcome as we show off areas of Southwest Montana we know and love. Email Kevin with any thoughts, corrections, or suggestions.

Last Post: Gallatin River Kayaking